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96 WA. "Cedar, concentrated beef bouillon, liqueur-like black fruits and quarry dust rise from the glass of Laurent's 2006 Clos De La Roche Vieilles Vignes, whose three growers are situated in what he calls "the Clos within the 'Clos'." Words like "sap," "energy," or "concentration" are too bland to employ here, but I can tell you there is neither charm nor refinement. There is however a remarkable sense of fresh fruit clarity, through which you watch, awestruck, as this wine's forces set to work, demonstrating a grip that practically shakes your entire mouth, even though it would seem to take brute force to move such a mass of meat reduction, and rock as confront you here. This Stone Guest on your palate will have you whistling like Don Giovanni. I'd steer clear of it for at least 4-5 years and anticipate awesome visits for subsequent dozen or more. Where it leads, follow – not that you'll dare to resist." Wine Advocate #186, Dec 2009 |