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95+ WA.
"Il Poggione is a Brunello superstar and a vintage like this reveals every reason why that affirmation is true. From the second the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino pours into the glass, you know you are in for something special. The wine is darkly saturated and rich in appearance. Absent are those slightly amber or browning hues you often get with Sangiovese in a hot vintage. Nor does the wine show flat or tired characteristics. Instead, the quality of fruit is vibrant and rich. This is a healthy, generous and exuberant Brunello with dark density and succulent fruit flavors that are followed by integrated spice and tobacco. The balance is impressive and one thing you get here is fresh acidity. This is not to be underestimated, because the acidity quota in the 2012 vintage across the appellation is not as high or evident as usual. This is one of the year's best Brunellos. Wines from Il Poggione consistently outperform most producers in the appellation. This historic estate has developed and fine-tuned a distinctive style over the years that prizes elegance and finesse. This is one of the largest estates in Montalcino with 590 hectares of land, including 140 hectares of vines. Years ago, when the vineyards were being planned and developed, various locations and elevations were carefully selected for Sangiovese grapes. Vineyard site variation would be the only safeguard against the unpredictable weather patterns that can adversely affect fruit quality. Soil types see enormous geological changes evident in the smallest distances. The one exception is the 12-hectare Paganelli vineyard with very homogenous soils on a single alluvial plain. Fruit from this site makes the Brunello Riserva. I'd like to give a heads up to readers: I have a fascinating retrospective of Il Poggione's Brunello di Montalcino coming soon. I tasted some very rare vintages including 1955." Wine Advocate #229, Feb 2017 |