| Score: |
94 AG.
"The 2014 Firebelle, Larkmead's Merlot-based wine, is terrific. Succulent black cherry, lavender, mint and dark spices infuse this pliant, creamy wine. Expressive savory and mineral-infused notes punctuate the finish. The tannins need time to soften, but there is plenty to like and look forward to. Winemaker Dan Petroski's focus on more sustainable farming practices and a move towards picking at lower sugars are two recent developments here. To be sure, this historic Calistoga vineyard naturally produces pretty big, powerful wines, so it will likely be some time before the full effects of these changes are felt. Perhaps more important is Larkmead's increased focus on single-parcel wines at the top of the range. For starters, the two Cabernets now have more specific identities than the White Label and Black Label monikers that were used at the beginning of the redesign. Today, the White Label Cabernet is simply the Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon and is an entry-level wine that is meant to represent the entire estate. The Black Label has been renamed Dr. Olmo, after Dr. Harold P. Olmo, the UC Davis scientist whose clonal research formed much of the early knowledge that exists today in Napa Valley on Cabernet Sauvignon. In the 1930s, Dr. Olmo set up a research station at Larkmead. When UC Davis built their Oakville research station in the 1950s, the plant material came from Dr. Olmo's clones at Larkmead. Today, the Dr. Olmo Cabernet is made from the same parcel that Dr. Olmo used for his research back in the 1930s and 1940s. As for the wines, they are terrific. The 2014s have all shut down considerably post-bottling, something I saw at many properties during my fall tastings. The 2015s are the product of a very condensed harvest. Yields are down about 20% across the board. Petroski adds that he left the wines on the skins a few more days than normal in order to give the wines a bit more structure to balance the natural intensity of the fruit." Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, Oct 2016 |