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The October 2020 Auction: Part 4

Auction # 629 | View Auction Schedule and Details
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Auction Ends: 10/22/2020 6:00:00 PM PST

Lot #132. Henri Boillot (Maison) Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 2018

Description: Consists of 1 Bottle, 0.75L
Score: 94 WA.
"Aromas of orange oil, honeycomb, ripe pears, wheat toast and paraffin wax introduce the 2018 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and textural wine that's fleshy and enveloping but underpinned by an impressively chalky structure that brings unusual tension and grip to this inherently generous terroir Guillaume Boillot began his harvest in Volnay on August 27, finishing up two weeks later, around September 10, in the Côte de Nuits. This is once again an exemplary portfolio of wines, all of which come warmly recommended, but there have been a couple of changes that merit notice. In 2018, Boillot told me that he continued his practice of fermenting his red wines in barrel but that he shortened the time of maceration to avoid picking up too much oak-derived sucrosity. And certainly, this year's collection of red wines shows a more completely integrated framing of new oak than last year's. Indeed, the reds are so good that it's appropriate to remember that, until Boillot's father reoriented the estate toward white wine, this was a domaine best known for its reds. Mention of white wine is the cue to mention another development—that Boillot used a vertical press for all his whites in 2018. He's very happy with the result, and I agree that these 2018 whites possess impressive chalky structuring extract that sets them apart . . . . Boillot added that in 2018 he used a touch less new wood and fewer barrels from François Frères, which—reviewing my notes—does seem to have made for a range of white wines less marked by the toasty, nutty signatures . . ." Wine Advocate Interim, Jan 2020
Provenance: The Blue Chip Cellar
Lot Location: Orange County
Estimate: $400

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