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95 NM.
"The 2011 Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, two-thirds from vines planted in 1912 and one-third re-planted in 1972, is a little more closed on the nose when compared with the Clos St. Jacques. But it gradually unfurls to reveal attractive scents of red cherries, chalk dust and cold stones. The palate is very full in the mouth with superb acidity: crisp dark cherry and red currant fruit, then later pomegranate and bergamot. It is very harmonious in the mouth, becoming fleshier on aeration with a precise, understated but focused finish. There is a lot of potential here. An excellent Clos-de-Beze with real breeding . . . . I have tasted the wines of this Marsannay-based producer, born from the original Clair-Dau estate in 1979, since tasting my first Pinot Noir, and yet somehow I had never visited their cellars until now. Bruno Clair was on hand himself to guide me through the wines in his blur of French that at times can be difficult to understand, as if every word is joined together. As usual, at his side was cellar-master Philippe Brun. His is a relatively large portfolio spread over their 23 hectares of vineyard, which has expanded in recent years when leasehold contracts with Fougeray de Beauclair and Louis Jadot came to an end. While I found the white 2011s needing a little more precision and complexity, his reds are evolving into fine examples of the vintage and often exhibit a degree of finesse that I could not discern a decade ago. In particular, at the top end there is much to admire from wines that I feel belong within the top tier of producers. The domaine’s Corton-Charlemagne vines lie on the limit of Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Though they lie on the side of the latter, their orientation means that the wines tend to evolve more like those located on the Pernand side." Neal Martin, Wine Advocate #208, Apr 2013 |