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98 RP. "The 1992 Montrachet is one of the candidates for the best Montrachet of the vintage. Bottled unfiltered, it is more open-knit and flattering to taste than many Montrachets are at such a young age, but wow, what extraordinary power, richness, unctuosity, and length! A honeyed, wheat thin, apple blossom, and mineral-scented nose, is followed by exceptionally deep, precise flavors. This [is a] mammoth yet astonishingly well-balanced wine . . . . In 1992, Amiot bottled his Puligny-Montrachet Les Demoiselles and Montrachet without filtration. To bottle a white burgundy without filtration means that the malolactic must be completely finished and there must be no residual sugar in the wine. It is commendable to see increasing numbers of Burgundy producers returning to their grandfather's style of winemaking. By so doing, they are not cheating the consumer of any of the vineyard's flavors . . . . This estate produced excellent, even stunning 1989s, excellent 1990s, and sensational 1992s." Wine Advocate #89, Oct 1993 |