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94 WA.
"Looking even better than it did from barrel, the 2016 Saint Joseph was singing last summer when I tasted it at the domaine. Truffle-like earthy florals accent peppery herbs, blending seamlessly with olives and raspberries on the nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied, rich and velvety, voluptuous even, yet balanced and vibrant, with a long, mouthwatering finish. For good reason, this jewel of an estate has become a darling among critics, sommeliers and consumers alike, with the result that prices have escalated rapidly. Available not that long ago for less than $50 at retail, the regular Saint Joseph now routinely sells for more than $100. In fact, good luck finding it for less than that. The domaine named for their father is today run by brothers Jean and Pierre Gonon, with Jean typically taking the lead when it comes to hosting visiting scribes. We first tasted the reds, starting with the 2018s out of barrel. It wasn't an easy year, said Jean. "We had lots of rain in spring, a bit of mildew, but then no rain until the week of August 15. It rained 14-15 millimeters a few times, then it was dry the rest of the way." Whites were picked the first week of September, and reds the following week. As we progressed through the lineup, going first to bottled reds and then switching over to whites, Jean spoke at length about the importance of working the soil, the water-holding content of the subsoil and the contributions of various soil microorganisms to the health of the plant. It's obvious that the vineyards are where the brothers spend the bulk of their time and also where the future of this great family domaine lies. In certain years, Gonon makes a separate Vieilles Vignes bottling, and after not doing so in 2016 and 2017, it appears there may be one released from 2018. Given the minute quantities, collectors will need to work their trade connections hard to locate a bottle or two." Wine Advocate Interim, Jan 2020 |