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93-95 WA.
"As is often the case, Dancer's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières was one of the least resolved of the wines in the cellar at this early stage, though its signature aromas of crushed rocks and white flowers was already apparent beneath the scents of ongoing fermentation. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with amazing depth and purity. I suspect it will surpass the Romanée this year, but it's still too soon to tell: prudent purchasers will buy both. Vincent Dancer established this five-hectare Domaine in 1996, settling in Chassagne-Montrachet and taking over some family holdings that had been rented out to others. Working with low yielding, certified-organic vineyards, Dancer is the quintessential noninterventionist, disdaining analysis until bottling and letting the wine take its course: a year after the vintage, it isn't uncommon for his wines still to be gently fermenting. This attitude isn't to be conflated with negligence, however, as Dancer takes care of his wines as punctiliously as he does his vines. The modus operandi here is simple: the juice of ripe grapes ferments and matures in barrel (more and more from Tonnellerie Chassin) for over a year, followed by several months in stainless steel to settle before bottling. The white wines are textural, concentrated and expressive, beautifully defined by their respective terroirs, and routinely among the most characterful and original in Burgundy, distinctive in style without being stylized. What's more, the fragrant, supple reds deserve to be better known. This is one of my favorite addresses in the Côte de Beaune and comes warmly recommended." William Kelley, Wine Advocate Interim, Jan 2019 |