| Score: |
92-94 NM.
"The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière, which contains 50% whole bunch fruit, has a clean and precise, almost pixelated bouquet with blackberry, briary and cold limestone scents that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, quite structured in the mouth with filigree and tensile tannin. This is very focused, linear in style, which is surprising given the warmth during the growing season, with great clarity on the finish. This is just a fantastic Morey-Saint-Denis from Christophe Roumier. I came close to missing my appointment at Domaine Roumier this year. Christophe was away on the only day I could visit and then a mix-up with times meant that I was left standing at the locked gates looking forlornly at the deserted winery, speculating what 2015 gems lay within. Fortunately I returned 30 minutes later and his assistant was there to guide me through what turned out to be one of the most thrilling tastings of the vintage, including what may well transpire to be one of its snow-capped peaks. The 2015s at Roumier were picked on 10 September, a little later than some other growers in Chambolle-Musigny, though not extraordinary late. This average yields was around 30hl/ha and they include around 40-50% whole bunch fruit (see individual notes). The racking had been done in September, unlike chez Mugnier next door where Frédéric was still waiting. The wines tended to be low in malic acid, which is passim in 2015, although the tartaric pulled the wines through and maintained the balance so crucial to counter the ripeness. This was an outstanding array of wines, each one reflective of its terroir, each complex and sensual. Anyone who enjoys Christophe Roumier’s wines is going to fall head-over-heels in love with his 2015s and it seems almost pointless to pick out one particular cuvée. I must comment upon the one and a quarter barrels of Musigny, however. The previous evening I had reflected upon the fact that I had not given a potentially perfect score after endless tastings – surprising given how already well-regarded the growing season is. Perhaps there would not be one? Then I tasted the 2015 Musigny and as I have explained before, it is the absence of any doubt that gives me the mandate to give a (potentially) perfect score. Any numerical association is a moot point when a wine like this is so rare and coveted. Rather I would use it as an indication that among the 5 or 6 outstanding Musignys that I tasted from barrel, this was a bit like a sprinter putting a yard or two between himself and the rest, as he passes the finishing line. You know, it kind of reminded me of the 2005 Musigny that I tasted with Christophe a decade ago. It’s just a shame it cannot be cloned so that more people could witness it first hand. That’s life, I guess. The best can sometimes be hyped beyond their true worth, but here at Roumier, the wines deliver not upon reputation alone, but the fermented grape juice in the glass: very special fermented grape juice." Neal Martin, Wine Advocate #228, Dec 2016 |